Letter 58: In this his second letter to Paulinus of Nola Jerome dissuades him from making a pilgrimage to the Holy Places, and describes Jerusalem not as it ought to be but as it is. He then gives his friend counsels for his life similar to those which he has previously addressed to Nepotian, praises Paulinus for his Panegyric (now no longer extant) on the...

JeromePaulinus of Nola|c. 389 AD|jerome
barbarian invasioneducation booksfamine plaguefriendshipgrief deathimperial politicsmonasticismproperty economicsslavery captivitywomen
Barbarian peoples/invasions; Imperial politics; Persecution or exile
From: Jerome, priest and scholar in Bethlehem
To: Paulinus of Nola, bishop and ascetic
Date: ~395 AD
Context: Jerome's second letter to Paulinus — surprisingly, he discourages a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, describing Jerusalem as it actually is rather than as pious imagination paints it, then offers practical spiritual counsel.

Paulinus,

"A good man out of the good treasure of the heart brings forth good things" [Matthew 12:35]. You measure me by the scale of your own virtues, and because of your own greatness you magnify my littleness. You take the lowest seat at the banquet, hoping the host will bid you go higher [Luke 14:10]. What is there in me that deserves praise from a man of your learning and eloquence?

Do not judge me by the number of my years. Gray hairs are not wisdom — it is wisdom that counts as gray hair. "Wisdom is the gray hair unto men" [Wisdom 4:9]. Moses, when choosing the seventy elders, was told to select them not for their age but for their judgment [Numbers 11:16]. Daniel, as a boy, judged old men and condemned their incontinence. Do not suppose me better than yourself simply because I enlisted under Christ's banner earlier than you. Paul was last among the apostles but labored more than all the rest [1 Corinthians 15:10]. The dying thief exchanged the cross for paradise in a single moment [Luke 23:43]. How many who were baptized in infancy have lived worthless lives — and how many who came late to the faith have outstripped them all?

Now to the question you actually asked: should you make a pilgrimage to Jerusalem?

I will tell you honestly — and what I say may surprise you, coming from a man who lives in Bethlehem. Access to the holy places is open to all. The heavenly kingdom is promised equally to those who live in Jerusalem and to those who live in Britain. Gregory of Nazianzus, Basil of Caesarea, the great bishops of Egypt and Asia — they lived holy lives without ever seeing Jerusalem. Anthony the monk never set foot here; neither did the monks of the Egyptian desert. The world is full of saints who have never visited these places, and full of sinners who have.

Jerusalem as it is — not as pious imagination paints it — is a city of soldiers, prostitutes, actors, and monks jostling against each other in crowded streets. The Holy Sepulchre is surrounded by commerce. The Mount of Olives overlooks a city that has been destroyed and rebuilt so many times that almost nothing from the Lord's day survives. If you come expecting to see what the Gospels describe, you will be disappointed. What you will find is a city like any other, with the same vices and the same struggles.

The true holy place is the soul that has been cleansed by faith. Christ can be worshipped as truly in Gaul as in Palestine. The real pilgrimage is interior — from sin to holiness, from the flesh to the spirit.

That said, I do not condemn pilgrimages. I live here myself, after all. But I live here not because Jerusalem makes me holier — it does not — but because it is where my work demands that I be. The Hebrew manuscripts are here. The scholars are here. The tradition of biblical learning that I need for my translations is here. If Paulinus of Nola can serve God better in Nola, then he should stay in Nola.

What I urge upon you is this: wherever you live, study the Scriptures. Read them daily. Let no day pass without their instruction. Put on the whole armor of God. Be what a priest should be — not merely ordained, but transformed. Avoid the company of worldly clergy. Surround yourself with serious, learned people. And if you do come to Palestine, come not as a tourist of holy sites but as a student of holy truth.

One more thing: I commend to you the bearer of this letter, Vigilantius [who would later become one of Jerome's bitterest opponents — a fact Jerome could not then foresee]. He comes to you with my recommendation. Treat him well.

Modern English rendering for readability. See the 19th-century translation or original Latin/Greek for scholarly use.

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